Russian Elegance; country and city fashion from the 15th to the early 20th century.

London, Vivays Publishing, c2011 ISBN: 978 908126 07 8 

Wow! I saw this book reviewed elsewhere. Costume is not something which normally intrigues me but the reviewer was so excited about the book and mentioned ‘embroidery’ so I decided to have a look despite my ambivalence. I am so glad I did. It is a gorgeous book. I shan’t be buying my own copy though… the cheapest one I can find online is $198US, going up to $409US. 

The book records some of the national dress and accessories held by the State Historical Museum in Moscow. Most of the garments were made in Russia by highly skilled crafts people; embroiderers, lace makers, weavers and tailors. There are exquisite examples of domestic fashion and religious garb worn for festival days or street wear – from the domestic to high fashion. 

The book opens with an introduction by Luisa Yefimova. She explains, in clear, easy to read language, the evolution of Russian dress from when women and men both wore tunic dresses, to when Peter the Great, in the 18th century, decreed that the upper classes were to wear European dress, which resulted in the influence of Paris fashion. 

Don’t be tempted to skip this introduction as it really gives a pertinent insight to the whole book.

There are only two chapters. Luisa has put the first chapter together, in her special area which is old Russian dress and national costume. Tatyana Aleshi-na has done the second chapter on urban costume from the 18th to 20th century. There is a glossary. It is only one page but very useful as it explains the various costume terms used in Russia. There fol-lows a list of illustrations, bibliography and index. 

What makes this book so alluring, so compelling, is the outstanding photography and accompanying concise explanations of truly amazing garments and accessories. The detail is breathtaking, not just on the high fashion and ecclesiastical garments, but also on the peasant clothes. The photography is so good that it is possible to examine these details closely. There are exquisite peasant dresses, head gear, ear- shawls…my favourite though, is a Parisian dress made for Empress Maria Fedorovna. If I am sounding somewhat lyrical, that is because the colours, designs and materials used are poetical.  Beautiful.

The holiday season is not far away. If you want a book which will take you to another time and place, this one will do it. Can you tell how much it has impacted me? It is available through Auckland Public Libraries but they only have two copies, so be in quick if you want it for summer reading.

Erica Marsden