Raised embroidery: techniques, projects & pure inspiration

 Tunbridge Wells, Search Press, 2017 ISBN: 978 1 78221 189 1 144 pages 

 What do you think of when you hear the term raised embroidery? I immediately think ‘stump work’, which I have always considered a rather ugly term for what can be beautifully wrought embroidery. However, it turns out that stump work is a Victorian term which is broader than the term ‘raised embroidery’. Kelley Aldridge, a RSN graduate and tutor, acknowledges the plethora of excellent books on the topic but claims this book takes a fresh look at the possibilities of this technique. Is she right?  The book starts with a plug for the Royal School of Needlework. Kelley then gives a very brief overview and history of raised embroidery. The facing page has a photo of a sweet little dress which looks good enough to eat! Then comes the expected chapter describing the materials desirable to execute the work; these are mostly the usual suspects but also includes a variety of ‘repurposed’ materials.  Where will you get your inspiration from? Some ideas and design tips are well covered. Next is a useful section on basic techniques; as basic as the way to thread a needle, tie a knot in the thread and start off your stitching ... and no, that is not with a knot. Well not really! Framing up is also covered, as is transferring a design – all very correct and Royal School, which is as it should be. Various padding techniques follow. Couching is explained as well as explanations of raised embroidery stitches, all accompanied with photos. How are your skills in shaping wire? There are instructions on how to accomplish these tricky techniques, followed by … 

 The Projects! There are three. The first is a bright, gorgeous brooch. I love it. This is followed by a phone case, and a Biscornu, both, I feel, a bit ho-hum and yes, there are only three projects which I found a little disappointing. However, each project comes with a heading (wearable, other useable and collectable) and after each there is a gallery of other embroideries which fall under that particular heading – embroideries by textile artists other than the author. These can be examined carefully - the photography is superb – for inspiration.  

 The book is A4 size and easy to handle. It is colourful and beautifully put together. I think that Kelley Aldridge has given us some tools, some projects and some inspirational ideas, which is what the title states. However, I decided to make the brooch. This is where I discovered the instructions are not really adequate. I undid several stitches several times as I struggled to work out for myself just how to embroider and make the brooch. I resorted to Mary Corbett’s website and my favourite stitch dictionary so I could execute the recommended stitches. So – a fresh look? Maybe, but I in the end, I was quite disappointed and awfully frustrated. 

 Erica Marsden